Granada: Alhambra, Jewel of Andalucia

And I awake, well rested after a deep sleep filled with dreams, to a bount of sunlight streaming through the window... Hmm, that las part was still a dream, for it was raining once more. We were up early so as to make our 10am reservation at the Alhambra. Unfortunately, the nearest patisseie was at the bottom of the hill, so we had to content ourselves with a not-too-exciting breakfast of toast and coffee downstairs. Then, a traipse thru the rain to the Alhambra.

The warning to get there early must have been for those sunny days in peak season. The crowds were mostly sparse except for a couple of itinerant tour groups. Even though the entrance to the complex was only a 10 minute walk from our hotel, it did take another 15 minutes to get to the entrance of the Nazrid Palaces. The whole site was huge, and we probably walked 2-3 miles just there.

The Alhambra was by far the best place we've seen so far. It was also the most cost effective -- we spent 4+ hours there and it only cost 13 Euros! (Take that, Sagrada Familia!) Well worth the visit.

So what made it worth it? It's hard to type expansively on the Droid but I'll try. The Nazrid Palaces had wonderful frieze work adorning the walls and intricate wood designs in geometric patterns on the ceilings. Like the Real Alcázar in Seville there were courtyards with serene pools of water and fountains.

One surprise was coming across a room for Washington Irving. Apparently, he stayed a few months in Alhambra and was inspired to write <i>Tales from the Alhambra</i>. There was a museum exhibit here on him -- I had no idea that he was an ambassador to Spain. This museum was housed in Carlos V palace. He was the grandson of Ferdinand and Isabella and commissioned the palace as a future capital, but he forgot that idea and the palace was never completed. The big highlight was a circular open-air portico in the center. There was also a nice history museum there as well.

Next in the Alhambra was the Generalife, literally Garden of the Architect. These were equisitely maintained gardens replete with the requisite pools and fountains. You had great views of the Nazrid Palaces and the Darro Valley -- where some of the shots of the Alhambra from yesterday were taken. Today, a different view of the Alhambra overlooking some of the arches of the Generalife. Also included is a picture of the Generalife with a dead cypress tree. This tree was supposedly where the sultana, the wife of sultan Boabdil, had a secret liaison with a leader of the rival Abencerraje family. There's a room named after them in one of the Nazrid palaces where the sultan slaughtered them when he learned of the affair. Bloodstains still mark the floor...

Last on the hill was the Alcazaba, a citadel with defensive walls and towers. More great views -- one of our hotel is included. There was one sign commemorating the defeat of the Moors by Ferdinand and Isabella in 1492 -- a busy year for the monarchs!

Leaving the Alhambra we descended through Puerta de Las Granadas, a gate festooned with pommegranates, which is what <i>granadas</i> means. So down the hill to the Darro Valley and then back up the other side to Albaicín. We had lunch at fondue place with views of the Alhambra. In the U.S. it's cheesy; here it's a Granadan specialty -- I guess cheesy too but in only one way!

After lunch we stopped at another tetería for tea (Generalife flavor!). We chatted with an Irishman from Cork who was very excited to meet an Indian (Sudha, not me!). He was an art professor on holiday who was also going to Morocco in the coming week. Here's a picture of us, ensconced in a corner of the small shop.

I haven't been as prolific at posting in Granada since there isn't free WiFi at the hotel. By tracking down hotspots I rather feel like a journalist of yore, calling in or telegraphing my stories!

So we're still not sure what we'll do tomorrow... So who knows, my next post may be from Africa!

Adios!