Continuing our narrative, we were taken by our guide to a local restaurant that obviously catered to tour groups. He got a free lunch, and I'm sure some type of tip. The food was at least fairly good. I had a chicken with almonds tagine and Sudha had couscous with seven stewed vegetables. The appetizers were probably the highlight. We had about 6 plates of <i>mezzes</i>. All were vegetarian and very good -- beet salad, steamed potatoes and tomatoes, babaganosh, bread and a few others. Dessert was fresh fruit -- oranges, tangerines, apples, and Sudha's coveted pomegranates.
After lunch we pretty much returned to the riad. Oh, we learned that a riad is a house with a garden; without one, the house is a dar. Then, we hired a tourist taxi for ~$20 and went out of the medina. If the weather wasn't so bad, I would've suggested walking. Then again we were told that it wasn't too safe.
First, we went to the Merenid Tombs dating back to the 12th Century. No one knows who exactly is buried there anymore, but you get a panaromic view of the medina on one side; on the other were verdant vales below the Middle Atlas mountains.
For our next stop, we skirted the suburbs (les bainlieus) of the new city (La Ville Nouvelle) and took us to a ceramic factory. We had a nice demonstration of how thing were made. Then, I was suckered into buying a small tagine. Turns out, we later saw it start at less than one third the price ($20 vs. $5). Similarly, the leather goods we got were probably $10 too much. Lesson learned: don't buy anything with a guide in tow (he takes a cut) and the "factories" don't have anything you can't also get in the souks for cheaper. We'll do better in the medina in Marrakesh.
Our last stop was a walk along the Jewish Quarter to the Royal Palace. There is not a significant Jewish population here anymore -- they all emigrated to Israel or America. But the balconied houses were renovated by UNESCO and were rather nice. For the Royal Palace, we really couldn't see much. Ordinary people here seem a bit put out in not being able to see inside as well as the ostentaciousness of the King to have one or more palace in each major city.
As we returned to the riad, we paid the guide (~$32). In retrospect, I still think it was worth it. With him, you get a level of comfort with the medina. It really isn't as scary or intimidating as it first looks. You just have to be careful in making sure the tour is more about seeing things and not buying things.
With the return of rain, we camped out in the lounge of our riad, killing time until dinner. The riads definitely offer a refuge from the hustle and bustle of the medina.
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